Just a bunch of city kids let loose on the beach somewhere between San Francisco and Santa Cruz…
On MLK Weekend the weather forecast was sunny and surf report too good to be true for January. We packed up our camping gear and headed down the 101. As we dipped away from the city the swell lines were clean and visible all the way down the coast. For the first time I’ve seen people were surfing all sorts of hidden breaks and spots along the cliffs. When we arrived at Waddell Creek there were only a handful of people in the water and waves “looked” friendly enough. Our crew of six suited up and hit the water.
Being the only people in the water, we charged the waves together, took drops we wouldn’t normally try and acted like fools. Some people caught a few on the head, others sat far outside and some ripped it up for the rest of us who couldn’t catch a break. We surfed till we couldn’t move our arms and chilled on the beach till sundown. Eventually making our way to Santa Cruz where we camped and woke up to do it all over again the next day. Only an hours drive from the city, it felt far more removed than usual because we had the wintery beaches to ourselves.
Having spent my life on the mountains, I’ve come to expect winter to be unpredictable and delayed at times. Some years it comes in October, while others we’re scraping by in December. And if you grow up in Oregon sometimes it comes and goes away with the rain in January. Despite my love of fresh, we even have years with too much snow, when plows and patrol can’t keep up the roads and avalanche control to enjoy it. Although that is rare, this year seems to be breaking the record for abnormal conditions.
It’s January 5th and for the first time in over twenty years I have only skied one day this season. For someone who used to log more days on snow than off in a year this is a little startling. Granted, I am living further from the slopes and I have work and surfing to distract me, but it is hard to ignore the impact on the mountain economy. With most of the western United States experiencing far below average snowfall, if any. While Alaska and the Northwest are getting hit, most of California is operating on a few man made runs and lots of sunshine on the horizon. Locals can be found hiking, biking, climbing and even swimming in the Sierra’s.
This year more than ever though I’ve come to realize that winter is a luxury, and snow the crop in the farmer’s economy. The livelihood of sales reps, ski patrol and anyone that thrives on tourism is at stake, i.e. the majority of the ski industry and many of my friends. As much as I want to complain about my own lack of turns, I’m forced to pray for the better. Although that is not the only reason I’m more appreciative of my turns this season.
My one and only day so far this season happened to be with my brother Sam, who has severe Cerebral Palsy, and cannot walk, talk or ski on his own. That’s never stopped him from wanting to go fast and rip turns like the rest of us. He got his first bi-ski at age 12 and has since had to find chairs that will suit his growing needs just to squeeze in a few runs. He turned 24 over Christmas and after a 4 year hiatus from skiing he was chomping at the bit to get on the slopes. We had reservations at Mt. Bachelor adaptive ski school and after cancelling our first day because of rain, we got a call to cancel again due to early season conditions i.e. no grooming, wet snow and winds which can be very jarring on a sit skier. Admittedly I wasn’t very eager to get out, but when Sam persisted, I couldn’t deny him the opportunity.
We pimped out his rig and hit the mountain with a posse of three aids, my mother and myself. Sam quickly asked to speed up, catch air and laughed at the thought of scaring my mom. We all got three ripping runs and he couldn’t have been happier. If I don’t get another day in this season (Which I know we will), I’ll be happy to say I got my one with Sam.
Here is just a little peak at skiing with him:
Please excuse the videographer… you’ll get the picture!
Though I’d like to think doing a snow dance and sacrificing some skis to the snow gods will do the trick, it appears to me like our weather system is a little out of wack. Let’s just hope Mother Nature comes through strong in the next couple months to make up for lost time.
Love of the water only grows as you spend time in it. The feeling of freedom it provides and the sense of playfulness within is hard to match.
Whether it was at the pool, beach or on the river, I spent almost every day of my youthful summers in the water. But it was only recently that I started to truly appreciate the ocean in all its beauty and strength. As a surfer you become very in tune with the water around you. It’s very alive, always changing, moving and reminding me to go with the flow of life. Each time as I paddle around, sometimes alone, sometimes joined by dolphins and otters or thousands more people in California, I learn something new. I am continually humbled by the waves, some days they make me feel glorious, while other days it’s like I have no business out there.
It is difficult to explain the connection with waves that keeps myself or others going back. But I thought Mickey Smith, a charming, humble, creative and passionate surfer/ photographer did an exceptional job. In his recent appearance at the DO Lectures he shares a poetic story and the magic of waves in his film Darskide of the Lens, along with a few valuable lessons to live by…
DO arm yourself with a grin.
DO embrace being out of control.
DO let your weirdness flow free. Go mad and be yourself.
DO trust in the things you love.
DO get primal with nature.
DO trust your instincts and run with them always.
DO use your fears and failures as fuel.
DO what you love for a living. But be wise with it.
“Fires of happiness, waves of gratitude for everything that brought us to that point in life at that point in time to do something worth remembering with a photograph or a scar.”
His words are inspiring. Take 20 minutes to watch this talk and steep yourself in some of the wisdom that Mickey has to offer.
MICKEY SMITH
Photographer, film maker & surfer
Mickey Smith is a lad that has lived a life a little less ordinary. He grew up amongst a family of fisherman and mariners, so the ocean and the elements were inevitably where he was drawn. At the age of 9 he was given a disposable camera and an acoustic guitar and cameras and music combined with the magic of waves eventually led him to become a photographer and film maker. From Iceland to Tahiti, Ireland to Japan, Mickey’s love for waves of consequence and isolated environments has left him with many a fine tale to tell and worldwide acclaim for his groundbreaking creative endeavours.
It’s not very often that the conditions align for a full moon surf session in San Francisco. No fog, warm temps, fair waves and a crew willing to jump in the water at dusk. I got an email mid day on Monday September 12th, that simply said: “Conditions are right. It’s on. Who’s in?” The idea had always intrigued me, but it’s a little intimidating to jump in the water when it’s dark and waves are rolling in. Suprisingly at Pacifica that day it was calm, the water warm and the waves fun size and glassy. You could see deep into the water and your feet even glowed as you moved, it was wild. Our group of eight were the only ones at the beach, we laughed and caught waves like little kids. When we finally climbed out of the water is was around 10PM. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Now that I’ve checked of full moon surfing and running through the night, next on my list of night time activities is a full moon backcountry ski. Here is some inspiration to get out there and get it done in the dark; Nike Chosen Premiere showcases Paul Rodriguez, Julian Wilson, Danny Kass and the rest of the Nike team as they kill it at night on skateboards, snowboards and surf.
200 miles, 4 mountain passes and 30 hours of running… who’s in?
Call me crazy, but I opted to fly to Utah to run a relay through the Wasatch valley with a few old ski friends, including my coach and roommate from Mt. Hood Academy. I wish I could say I didn’t know what I was getting into, but I had just run a relay a few weeks earlier from Napa to Santa Cruz. The only difference was that this time I had longer legs to run, at altitude and we were involved in a little marketing scheme.
When Courtney Vermaas, Director of brand for Salomon/ Suunto invited me to join the team I didn’t know we would be moving targets for the entire race. As one of the race sponsors, Suunto was giving away watches at the finish line. Anyone on the course could “Road Kill” (pass) us on the course and we gave him or her a red rubber band to be entered to win. I applaud the campaign, as many of the people who passed were thrilled to hear this, but the only downside is it made us very conscious of how many people were flying by on the road. As a competitive person, it’s rather humbling to hand out bracelets as your huffing it up the side of the mountain in the dark, which is exactly what I had to do numerous times on my first leg.
As the twelfth runner, I kicked my day off with an uphill trek to the base of Snowbasin lodge at 6,394 ft., a good way to wake up the sea level lungs. Our team which included folks from Outside Media trekked through the night as they tweeted and facebooked under multiple identities.
Our van of six quickly became close friends as our lack of sleep turned to humor and delirium. Our stomachs were in knots, our eyes blurry and our minds on the finish line. I had the final leg; unlike my first I made it a goal not to be passed. Instead I passed 29 runners and sprinted through the finish, almost losing my team at the final corner. After is was all over, I can say that unlike many of the other sports I do regularly running is one of those I don’t particularly find joyous. I do it regularly, it feels good, clears my mind and it’s a great workout. But I think next year I’ll opt for a ski trip to Utah instead!
Summit of Watach Mountain 8864′
Almost ten years after racing together in the northwest, we continue to get together and push the limits of our bodies!
10 People, 250 Mile Drive, 18 Mile Hike and a Protected Surf Break.
You are never alone in California. The surf breaks are crowded, the campgrounds are booked a year in advance and there are few places you can escape with out reservation.
For month’s a group of friends had been talking about making the trip up the Lost Coast in northern California. Supposedly one of the best point breaks lies off the protected land. Best, if not for its giant peeling surf and surrounding scenery, then for its lack of competing surfers. The break, called Big Flat owes its emptiness to inaccessibility. The only way to get there is to hike 9 miles along the beach that is impassable at high tide. That is a long way to lug a surfboard on your back, in addition to camping equipment and 5mm wetsuit.
Although there were times when I questioned our sanity, like when I was bent over charging a head wind with a 7″ wind sail on my back, the black sand, cool, wet air, empty beaches and nothing but the sound of waves crashing along the way provided a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. The weekend consisted of yoga on the beach, rainbows, uncontested surf, bonfires, and bears who made off with more than half our food.
Here is a short video of our epic adventure up the Lost Coast.
This month I ventured down south to Costa Rica in pursuit of warm water and glassy waves. With multiple swimsuits in tow, I turned my back on the heavy snowstorm headed for California and set my site on surfing some of the biggest waves of my life.
We were headed to Tamarindo, leaving from San Francisco on a red eye through Miami when we were welcomed by a cancelled flight due to a fuel tank fire. After bartering with the American Airlines agent to get us on standby for a flight that evening, we decided to hit the beach. Miami Beach that is, mind you it was 5:30 am and I was still wearing my San Francisco winter wardrobe – sweater, scarf and long pants. When we rolled up to the water the sun was just rising, it was calm and only a few people were up from the previous night. We picnicked on the sand, rented bikes, beach chairs and enjoyed mojitos as the beach slowly came to life. Techno music pulsed as swarms of girls in bikinis flocked to the streets; it was like Jersey shore meets MTV spring break. By the time we headed back to the airport I turned to my friend and said this place is great to visit, but I sure hope we don’t have to stay the night. Luckily we made our flight, sans bags. But it wouldn’t’ be an adventure without a few hiccups, they eventually made there way as did all seven friends.
Having learned to surf in northern California, I had always dreamt of what it would be like to paddle without a restraining wetsuit or even a hood and booties. When I hit the water on that first day it was like a cool bath, I slipped around on my board with an ear-to-ear smile, hardly worried about catching waves because I was having so much fun. That smile quickly turned to a serious grin as the competitive Annie showed its face. Being the competitive person I am, I had set a goal for the week – To surf a shorter board on bigger waves. I had previously only long boarded and was eager to make the jump. As the week progressed I not only rode, but got barreled by some of my biggest waves. My life changing “I can call my self a surfer” wave was at little Hawaii, just south of Tamarindo, where I caught a long right and it kept accelerating. I was half scared and half stoked that I kept making it out the other side. I paddled back out to the boys with big grin and unforgettable boost of confidence.
For someone who rarely sits still, not much is different on vacation. I relished the opportunity to disconnect from my technology driven lifestyle back home and live in the moment with the people around me. My only obligation was to surf, eat, sleep and do it all over the next day. We rose early with the sun, surfed until we were either too beat to paddle or too burned to bare the sun any longer. We were a group of overgrown children, happy and content playing in the water, cracking jokes and pushing each other to get better. I got much stronger, confident and acquired a nice golden tan. I surfed twice a day, every day, except one when we decided to take a break and visit the jungle. We zip lined through the lush forest, tubed the river and rode horses to a waterfall that we jumped in. It was my first time on a horse and somehow I managed to get it to gallop or race away from the pack, I will admit I was slightly scared.
We wrapped up the week with an epic Sunday morning group session at the river mouth. I caught tons of waves as we raced the clock before heading to the airport. As we went through customs and awaited our departure, we wondered how long the buzz would last, if it would out live the golden tan we were wearing.
Highlight Video from an epic week of two-a-day surf sessions in Guanacaste Costa Rica.
As I sit back in wintery wet San Francisco, dreaming of warm water, coconuts and golden sunsets, I am struggling to muster up the nerve to plunge back into the icy cold water. Although I am dying to get back out, my 5mm wetsuit is not. Until next time, I will miss la pura vida – the good life.
I’ve always had a passion for the outdoors and new challenges. From before I can recall descending mountains, riding bikes and fitting multiple activities into my day was the norm. The only thing that’s changed in recent years is that I work 50+ hours a week and have to squeeze those adventures and activities into the wee hours of the morning, evening and weekend.
I am far from a light packer, no matter if I am headed to Tahoe, Santa Cruz or out of the city for the day I usually come prepared with all the battle armor. The Subaru is equipped with multiple jackets, toys, sleeping bag, food and first aid kit (which comes in handy more than I’d like). I am the epitome of a road warrior, something I never imagined I would be. During the weekends, many of my friends assume I am off adventuring, and more often than not they are right. As much as I love the city, I desire fresh air, exercise and disconnecting from the daily routine.
It is amazing how quickly ones mind can shift, in just a few years I went from a ski snob to appreciating every hour I got on the hill. I used to scowl at the weekend crowds, lines and multiple hour commute. These days, I pack up and power through the 4-hour drive every weekend. I’ve endured 8 hour traffic jams, road closures, sleeping in my car and just last week I rose at 3 AM to make it up to Kirkwood in time for first chair. The drive is not as bad as it may sound, it is one place where I unwind, can think, zone out to music and catch up with friends and family over the phone. I appreciate the snow even more when I get there, and quickly forget about the week’s worries and stresses.
Some people think I am crazy, and question how I can do it all. I may have a few screws loose, and sleep a few less hours in the day than the average person, but I’d like to think it’s because I am motivated and driven by adrenaline and stoke. Something you can’t always explain to those who don’t do adrenaline sports. Skiing, surfing, biking provide a feeling of accomplishment and happiness, sometimes frustrating and difficult but highly rewarding. When you climb a mountain and turn around to ski waste deep powder, you quickly forget about how much your feet hurt or hips burned on the way up. The same goes for catching a wave or descending on a bike. All those times I paddle out and get smacked down by the ocean, I some how return again because those glorious smooth rides, speedy drops and glassy peaks are so satisfying. I can hardly hide the grin from my face when I come off the mountain or waves. Which is why with even more limited time in my days, I choose to satisfy my thirst for adventure.
After years of being a competitive athlete, I have enjoyed trying new sports and facets of skiing. These days I can be found in the backcountry, climbing new peaks, seeking fresh tracks and exploring new mountains. Having been fortunate to ski almost daily throughout my youth and college years, I am even more appreciative of the time I get to do it now. Fortunately this year we have been blessed with record breaking storm totals and bottomless powder. I’ve had some of the best days of my life and am always thirsting for more.
Another year under the belt and life continues to accelerate rapidly forward. I took the opportunity to slow down over the holiday. And by slow down, I mean step away from my computer, spend time with family, get some fresh air, fresh powder and most importantly reflect on my life. During the many hours on the road between California, Oregon and Utah I thought about what I accomplished over the last year, what challenges I overcame and how I have grown. As I switched between my favorite podcasts, books, loud music and occasional silence, I let my mind wander, dream, question and explore the many opportunities that 2011 provides.
When I returned to San Francisco, a good friend and fellow adventure mate encouraged me to write my thoughts, memories, accomplishments and goals down (I highly encourage you to as well). I documented my most memorable experiences, events that I may or may not want to replicate, as well as skills I gained. These include everything from speaking engagements and forming partnerships, to climbing mountain peaks, making my first trip to the ER and getting my first stitches.
I set goals that both big and small, fun and serious, ambitious and easily attainable. They range from challenges to events, skills and the baby steps required to get their. I had a little fun with it and broke them into the following five categories:
Health and fitness
Adventure and competition
Volunteer and charity work
Personal
Professional and skill development
Here are just a few example’s of the day to day goals that I set for myself:
Write more. Blog more. If you take a glance at my blog, you can see my writing has been far from prolific. I mostly wrote about the speaking events, campaigns and work happenings. I am going to start using this site a little differently; instead I will showcase my life and the broad range of things I am passionate about. I am making it a goal to write more, write often and write about adventures, thoughts, inspirations and experiences.
Read more. Listen more. If you know me, I have never been one to sit still or sit back and read much. But when I do read, I enjoy it, I like to learn and I like to follow stories, history, economics or freakonomics and business. Listening includes NPR in the mornings, podcasts and books on the road. I even put together a reading list bookshelf at shelfari, and I am always open to suggestions.
Surf a shortboard. Much easier said than done, well at least for me. The competitive me wants to be good NOW! After two years of paddling and battling, I am finally confident on my longboard and most importantly riding waves regularly. Making the jump to a short board is like starting all over again, but the challenge is what makes it appealing. Not to mention the smaller lighter board to carry and to duck under the big waves.
Other goals include things such as building a bike from scratch, to launching a social good campaign, learning how to use my camera to it’s fullest potential and volunteering my time and money to nonprofits I am passionate for. I believe you have to be both a dreamer and a doer to accomplish things in life. Personal growth is a truly result of trying new things, challenging yourself and taking risks. Granted everyone is faced with unique challenges, but it is the ones that you present yourself that can guide your destiny. I encourage you to look forward and reflect back on your year, set some goals and document your achievements
Having spent my life on the mountains, I’ve come to expect winter to be unpredictable and delayed at times. Some years it comes in October, while others we’re scraping by in December. And if you grow up in Oregon sometimes it comes and goes away with the rain in January. Despite my love of fresh, we even have years with too much snow, when plows and patrol can’t keep up the roads and avalanche control to enjoy it. Although that is rare, this year seems to be breaking the record for abnormal conditions.
My one and only day so far this season happened to be with my brother Sam, who has severe Cerebral Palsy, and cannot walk, talk or ski on his own. That’s never stopped him from wanting to go fast and rip turns like the rest of us. He got his first bi-ski at age 12 and has since had to find chairs that will suit his growing needs just to squeeze in a few runs. He turned 24 over Christmas and after a 4 year hiatus from skiing he was chomping at the bit to get on the slopes. We had reservations at Mt. Bachelor adaptive ski school and after cancelling our first day because of rain, we got a call to cancel again due to early season conditions i.e. no grooming, wet snow and winds which can be very jarring on a sit skier. Admittedly I wasn’t very eager to get out, but when Sam persisted, I couldn’t deny him the opportunity.
